Vietnam & Cambodia with Heart, Style, and a Few Honest Truths

Some places don’t just tick boxes – they linger. Vietnam and Cambodia are two of those places. Neighbours, yes – but certainly not twins. One is full of chaos and colour, with food you’ll crave for weeks. The other? A little quieter, a little tougher on the heart… and all the more powerful because of it.

Let’s start with Cambodia – where my own journey began.

Siem Reap: Temples, Tuk Tuks & Tastes That Stick With You

I spent a few days in Siem Reap and completely fell for it. Yes, the temples are what draw most people in (and they absolutely should – go at sunrise or sunset to beat the heat), but for me, the magic was in everything around the temples.

There was the tuk-tuk food tour – part traffic-dodging, part culinary adventure – where we ducked down alleyways and wove through night markets. I still remember the charcoal grills sizzling, skewers I couldn’t name (and maybe didn’t want to), and the kind of flavours that linger long after the trip ends.

I joined a local cooking class that began with a trip to the market – herbs bundled in banana leaves, fish flapping in shallow trays, and a chef who knew every stallholder by name. We fed monkeys lotus fruit outside temples, wandered through Angkor Wat in awe, and even received a blessing from a monk – the kind of quiet, goosebump moment you don’t forget.

And then, there was Pub Street. Noisy, happy, and full of energy, with cheap cocktails, glowing lights, and that easy, anything-goes kind of vibe that only Southeast Asia does so well.

Siem Reap has a laid-back charm. It’s a place where jandals are fine for dinner and smiles are served with your street noodles. There’s a raw, open-hearted energy here – and you feel welcome, always.

Phnom Penh: Confronting, Chaotic & Complicated

Now, full disclosure: I didn’t love Phnom Penh.

Yes, the palace is beautiful, especially the Silver Pagoda, which houses a floor made from over 5,000 silver tiles and a life-size gold Buddha set with diamonds. And yes, the riverside has its moments – like sipping a cold drink on a rooftop bar, whilst watching the sunset over the Tonlé Sap.  But the city itself felt overwhelming – noisy, gritty, and confronting in more ways than one.

That said, I’m glad I went. I visited the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum and the Killing Fields, and no amount of reading or documentaries could’ve prepared me for what I saw and felt there. It’s not easy. But it’s important.

Walking through Tuol Sleng (formerly a school turned prison known as S-21), I stood inside the actual cells where people were held. The torture devices are still there. It was horrifying – and weirdly fascinating. At the end of the visit, under a shaded area, sat one of only a few known survivors of the prison. He smiled kindly and offered me his book. I bought it, and had a photo taken with him… but after what I’d just witnessed, I couldn’t bring myself to smile back.

Then came the Killing Fields at Choeung Ek. Nothing could’ve prepared me.
At first glance, it’s peaceful. Serene, even. Wildflowers everywhere, a quiet river, birdsong. But then you put on the headset and begin to walk – and realise you’re beside an open grave, where bones and clothing fragments are still visible. Out of respect, many have been left undisturbed.

One of the most moving sights was the so-called “Killing Tree,” now adorned with ribbons, which stands beside a mass grave of children. And then, finally, the Memorial Stupa: a glass tower filled with more than 8,000 human skulls.
It was a sobering afternoon, and the rest of the day passed in quiet reflection. But I’m so grateful I experienced it. I left with a deeper understanding of Cambodia’s recent history… and a huge amount of respect for its people.

Cambodia is a country still living with the echoes of its past.
And yet, in the villages and on the streets, you’ll meet some of the warmest, most joyful people you’ll ever encounter. Always smiling. Always offering.

It’s that contrast that stays with you. The weight of history, sitting beside incredible resilience and grace.

Pro tip: Phnom Penh is worth visiting – but I recommend going with an organised group or private guide. It helped me feel more comfortable, safe, and prepared for some of the heavier moments.

Vietnam: Lanterns, Chaos & All the Flavours

While I haven’t (yet!) made it to Vietnam, I’ve helped plenty of travellers fall in love with it, and I completely get the appeal (it’s on my list!). It’s the kind of place that hits all five senses at once: the scent of sizzling street food, the buzz of scooters and shouting vendors, the silky feel of handwoven fabrics in Hoi An’s tailor shops, and the hypnotic glow of lanterns dancing in the evening light.

Clients often return talking about two Vietnams – the elegant stillness of Halong Bay, and the organised mayhem of Hanoi. One of my favourite client stories comes from a food tour by Vespa, darting through backstreets and alleyways, sampling everything from silky pho to grilled pork on sugarcane skewers. They were gobsmacked by how flavour-packed the food was, and even more blown away by the locals, who insisted they sit and share a beer at sunset, just because.

And the bánh mì? Apparently ruined all other sandwiches, forever.

Vietnam is a contrast in the best possible way: one moment you’re crossing the street in Hanoi like it’s a high-stakes game of Frogger, and the next you’re cruising through misty limestone karsts in peaceful silence.

For those doing a Mekong cruise, Vietnam often forms either the start or the finish, and it’s an excellent match. Bright, bold, buzzing. The perfect contrast to the quieter, more reflective rhythm of Cambodia.

🛳️ Pro Tip: If you’re cruising the Mekong, build in a few extra days on either side. Vietnam’s got energy, edge, and so much good food, but you won’t appreciate it fully if you’re jetlagged and rushing to board. A pre-cruise food tour in Saigon and a post-cruise stay in Hoi An? Chef’s kiss.

Cruising the Mekong: Still Water, Big Feelings

Whether you start in Vietnam or Cambodia, the Mekong is where everything slows down – in the best possible way.

Sailing the Mekong, especially from Phnom Penh and deep into the countryside, is a kind of travel I wish more people experienced. It’s luxurious, yes. But it’s also deeply grounding.

From the moment I stepped onboard, I felt looked after in a way that’s hard to describe without sounding gushy. Shoes were whisked away and returned spotlessly clean after muddy village visits. Staff remembered not just my name, but how I liked my water (sparkling, thanks). Cabins were elegant and spacious, and meals were a sensory event – think fresh lemongrass, fragrant broths, and dishes that made you reconsider everything you thought you knew about zucchini.

But what really stuck with me was the contrast.
One minute, you’re kayaking through a floating village where the houses lean on stilts and the school bell is a metal drum. The next, you’re back onboard with a glass of wine, being served a five-course tasting menu and discussing the day’s adventures with guests from all over the world.

That’s where the emotional complexity of Cambodia hits. It’s hard — and important — to hold space for both privilege and poverty. Travel doesn’t fix that. But choosing the right cruise company, one that hires local crew, supports community projects, and gives back, really can make a difference. (And yes, that’s something I can help with.)

Highlights? A monk-led Q&A session, ox-cart rides through flower fields, and village visits that felt genuine, not performative. The cruise was slow, thoughtful, and rich with moments that made me put my camera down and just be there.

Final Thoughts: Come for the Colour, Stay for the Heart

Vietnam and Cambodia aren’t polished. They’re real.
They’ll challenge you a bit, move you a lot, and leave you with stories that go far beyond the photo reel.

There are a few behind-the-scenes details I can help with too — things like visas, currency, and which cruise direction fits best.

If you would like to know more about travelling in Vietnam & Cambodia, contact TS Travel

Image credits: Cambodia photos © TS Travel. Vietnam images via Canva.

If you’d like help planning a luxury Southeast Asia escape – or just want to know what it’s really like to cruise the Mekong – get in touch with me. I’ll talk you through the best options, without the fluff.